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A real surprise after the previous trio as the nose is full of smoky and seashore aromas: sel gris, drying seaweed, wild herbs on wet rocks, peat, then green notes of shiso, geranium and tomato leaf before graphite comes through. Intense and mezcal-like. Water accentuates the salinity but also calms things by adding in a touch of vanilla pod, light and sweet yellow fruit, and bone broth. Finally it seems to relax.
More varied than the nose. Although the smoke and salinity still comes through, there’s more gentle grain to calm the waters. There’s a light dip in the mid-palate where things wobble slightly and the firm dry oak shows its hand, before stone fruits come into play. Water adds nutty sweetness and a slight oiliness.
Amazing freshness for its age, but there’s a slight hollowness to things here.